Let's Just Make That!

We're now live on Kickstarter.

2012-02-15T20:05:00.000-08:00

We're now live on Kickstarter. Click here to check it out. If you like it, please donate. If not....well, why wouldn't you. http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/908334473/lets-just-make-that-tv-show-and-workshops

I know you haven't seen any new episodes lately, but I have been in grant writing frenzy mode, so please bear with me. Coming up in the next couple of weeks: We'll take a field trip to Coffee Exchange in Providence to see what kind of rad bathroom fixtures they have, and how we can make it ourselves; we'll check out Providence's newest live music venue, Fete in Olnyville and see how we can recreate some of what they've got. Also, my man Avi David has about a billion guitars and other instruments that need to be hung and displayed in his house, and I need to show my Mom how to correctly hang a picture on the wall, so we'll deal with that too. Stay tuned!

-Jessica

New! LJMT Rap

2012-02-12T19:40:00.000-08:00

Recently Lisa and I auditioned for a reality show where contestants build furniture from repurposed materials. I wrote a quick rap to explain what we're all about. We plan on making a for reals video soon. Hope you like. I think it gets the message across.

LJMT! MEDIA STORAGE DISPLAY 007

2011-11-14T14:56:00.000-08:00

We're Back! After a long hiatus. This week's project was actually sent in from a Blog reader who had a problem with their overwhelming collection of DVD's and cassette tapes and needed a solution. So we found one. Check out the video to find out how to make it!

LJMT! is now a legit class

2011-09-16T14:32:00.000-07:00

Do you have a project at home that you want to tackle but you don't know where to start? Is it something you want to build, but don't know how to make it? How about a repair that needs fixin' but you don't want to hire a handyman? You can do it yourself! Sign up at the Learning Connection, Providence to take Let's Just Make That! classes.

Off the bat you will receive a LJMT! starter toolbox, stocked with all the goodies you need to tackle any simple project at home. Projects include: how to build a shoe rack, how to build a kitchen stool, how to do home repair, and how to build a kitchen island. Expect a fieldtrip. Batteries not included.

Four basic blueprints for this class: 1) simple language explains the process, 2) try to reuse materials, 3) source locally when possible, 4) make it easy...so easy that your Mom can do it! So bring your project ideas and design problems and leave this class with a skill, plan for repair and the confidence to complete your own home repairs and furniture fixes. You will also complete a project in every class--giving you the opportunity to learn how to measure, cut, create.

Let's Just Make That! Class

Sunday 1:00 pm - 3:00 pm; 5 sessions starting October 23, 2011, ending November 20, 2011
Non-member Fee: $125.00 Member Fee: $95.00
Instructor: Jessica Brown
Location: Providence

Where is the class?

201 Wayland Ave # 6
Providence, RI 02906-4464
(401) 274-9330

Judy's Post Show Testimonial

2011-07-05T13:13:00.001-07:00

Here are a few words from Judy about Let's Just Make That! and her episode.

Lisa's Post Show Testimonial

2011-07-05T13:07:00.000-07:00

Here are a few words from Judy about Let's Just Make That! and her episode.

Episode 006 How to make a milkcrate cushioned ottoman

2011-07-05T12:21:00.000-07:00

Now for the Quick Project Rundown (QPR).

PROJECT: How to make a milk crate ottoman
STEPS: 5
PROJECT LENGTH: 45 min
DIFFICULTLY LEVEL: Level 2 Wrench
MATERIALS: (1) Milk crate,(2) pieces of plywood 13x13 & 12x12, polyester fill, (4) 1" wood screws, Duck tape, hot glue sticks, bed sheets or fabric
TOOLS: Drill, scissors, hot glue gun, straight pins, yard stick or tape measure, piece of soap

STEP 1: GET MATERIALS

STEP 2: MEASURE & CUT WOOD. You're going to need 2 pieces of wood to create a lid for the ottoman. The top piece is for the actual seat (what you attached the cushion and fabric to) and the 2nd piece will fit inside of the top of the crate to keep the seat from sliding around.

Measure the opening of your milk crate. Cut one piece at 13" x 13" and one piece at 12" x 12".

STEP 3: LAY OUT PATTERN & CUT. Lay out your bed sheet or piece of fabric on the floor and with a yard stick and piece of soap (great for marking on fabric) draw out the pattern below. This is how we'll cover the sides of the milk crate. Make sure to leave an extra inch of fabric around the "plus sign." You are going to need that extra material to glue
the edges together.

STEP 4: ASSEMBLE BOTTOM. After you have cut out the "plus sign," lay it down good side up (because we are working on this inside out). Sit the milk crate in the middle and lifting all of the arms of the "plus sign" up, tape them to the inside of the crate (see below).

At each corner, bring the flanges together and with the straight pins, pin them together at snugly and close to the crate as you can. This will create a seam for you to glue together.

Now that you have the seams made, open the flaps, lay down a bead of hot glue close to the seam, close flaps and squeeze together. Warning! Hot glue does not feel good on your fingers.


After the seams have cooled and hardened, slide the whole sleeve off, flip inside out and slide it back onto the milk crate.

Now to finish off the bottom piece, pull the edges over and tuck it under itself (if you have enough material) for a clean edge. Lay a bead of hot glue down on the inside of the crate and press down the edge.


Once all the edges are glued down, at an angle, cut out the extra material in the corners (or your lid won't fit in).

STEP 5: ASSEMBLE TOP. With your bed sheet or fabric, grab you yard stick and measure out a 23" x 23" square. Even though the seat square is 13" x 13", this is the material that you will use to cover your seat so it has to accommodate the cushion and the wood. (see drawing below)

Lay down material, image side down. Take your poly filling and set it in the middle. Next, take the 13"x 13" piece of wood and set it on top of the cushion to make a delicious seating sandwich.

Pull edges over and with the Duck tape, tape them down to the wood. I suggest starting with one side, taping it down in the middle then pull the opposite edge and tape that down in the middle. Next, turn the piece of wood, tape it down in the middle, then pull on the opposite edge and tape that down in the middle. Now take the corner material and make a hospital corner (I think that's what it is) and tape that down.

It should look like this. It doesn't need to be beautiful.

Lastly, take the 12"x 12" piece of wood and lay it over the taped seams and screw it in the middle of each edge. This will keep the fabric in place.

Voila! Sit your lid on top of the milk crate and you've got yourself a cushioned ottoman. All of my materials for this project cost $1.65. A comparable ottoman in stores costs $19.95 for a total cost savings of $18.30.

Try these other styles. This one features buffalo, deer, foxes, and pine trees for the hipster in you.

Matchy Matchy.

For a more upscale ottoman, I used a fancy satin material that I got from Lorraine's Fabric Store. This is the Oprah Winfrey of ottomans.

Episode 005 How to reduce energy costs by insulating your outlets

2011-06-05T08:53:00.000-07:00

For this episode, I went to the home of my former landlord, Judy DiPanni in Johnston, RI. She was feeling a draft come through her electrical outlets and switches on the perimeter walls of her house, so I came over and showed her how to nip that in the bud.

When I lived upstairs from Judy, I had weatherized the apartment by putting weather stripping around the doors, adding windjammer sealant to the windows, repairing my storm windows, and putting these Socket Sealers (below) on all of my outlets. Every month, we lose money on our utility bills because of all of the energy that we lose through drafts, cracks, and holes in our building envelope (house). Well no more!


Now for the Quick Project Rundown (QPR). PROJECT: How to reduce energy costs by insulating your outlets STEPS: 3 PROJECT LENGTH: 30 min DIFFICULTLY LEVEL: Level 1 Wrench MATERIALS: (1) Box of insulating socket & switch sealers TOOLS: Flat head screwdriver and paint scraper (if needed to pry plate cover)

STEP 1: COUNT ALL OF THE OUTLETS AND SWITCHES ON THE OUTSIDE WALL. That will determine how many insulation covers you need. We counted 10 total.

STEP 2: GET MATERIALS. I picked up these Duck brand Socket Sealers from Ace Hardware for $3, but are available at any hardware store worth their salt. Inside, there are 18 outlet covers, and 6 light switch covers. You can also get them in a double light switch combo.

STEP 3: ADD INSULATING COVERS ONTO THE SOCKETS. One at a time, go through and unscrew all of the plate covers off of the outlets. Apply the Socket Sealer over the outlet (punch out the plugs 1st), press to fit in place, then put the plate back over the insulation and screw the plate back on. You may notice that it is a snugger fit, and that's ok. That just means that there's no air getting through here baby!

Quick fact: Every year, we lose an equivalent amount of energy from our homes just through cracks, holes, and gaps as we would if we had a 3 foot by 3 foot hole in the wall, according to the National Association of Energy Resources. Can you believe all that hard earned money down the drain...or I guess out the wall when a couple of simple and inexpensive solutions can solve all of that? For more information about how to reduce energy costs at home and how to be an all around better steward to the environment read: Ready, Set, Green: 8 Weeks to Modern Eco-Living, by Graham Hill and Meaghan O'Neill as well as The Green Book: The Everyday Guide to Saving the Planet One Simple Step at a Time, by Elizabeth Rogers and Thomas Kostigen.

Mom's views on her Project

2011-04-24T13:10:00.000-07:00

Levels of Difficulty

2011-04-19T12:22:00.000-07:00

Just in case you don't know or forgot the Wrench ratings, here you go.

Episode 004 How to fix a hole in the wall

2011-04-19T11:34:00.000-07:00


For this episode, I was live on the scene at my Mother's house in Nashville, Tennessee. She had a hole in the wall that needed to be repaired, so that's what we took care of in this episode.

Now for the Quick Project Rundown (QPR).

PROJECT: How to fix a hole in the wall
STEPS: 5
EPISODE LENGTH: 13 min
DIFFICULTLY LEVEL: Level 2 Wrench
MATERIALS: (1) piece of gauze mesh, (1) piece of aluminum mesh, (1) sm. container of joint compound, (1) sm. container of paint
TOOLS: Sanding sponge, squeegee, paintbrush, scissors


STEP 1: ASSESS THE SITUATION. The situation is that my Mother was changing the air filter on the staircase & the cover fell down making a gash in the wall. Also, you can see that there is a dent to the right of the gash caused by her tossing a hamper down the stairs. I've been assured that this won't happen again.

STEP 2: LIGHTLY SAND THE AREA. Before you apply the patch, you want to lightly sand the area to knock any of the rough edges down. Also by sanding, it creates "tooth" on the surface & that gives the joint compound something to hold on to.

STEP 3: CENTER THE PATCH ON THE WALL. Using the aluminum mesh first, you want to cut a piece that is about a 1/4" wider & longer than the hole itself. The mesh has a sticky back so it will adhere to the wall easily. Press down around all edges firmly. NOTE: Since the dent is not as severe as the hole, you don't need to put aluminum mesh over it, just the gauze.

Next, using the gauze mesh, you will lay this piece over the aluminum mesh. This piece is about 1/4" wider and longer than the aluminum strip. It too has a sticky back. Press down firmly on all edges.

Here is a drawing of the patches. On the left is a diagram of the aluminum mesh & on the right is the size of the gauze mesh that would go over the aluminum.

STEP 4: COVER WITH JOINT COMPOUND. LET DRY & SAND. Using the squeegee, spread the joint compound over the patch. Start with a good glob (that's ok) and spread compound well past (like an 1" on all sides). You don't want it to stay thick. Remember you don't want it to look like you repaired the wall.


After removing some of the excess compound, we smoothed everything over. Make sure that you don't smooth it so much that you see the grid of the mesh, that means you took it down too far. You want a nice little layer on top because you still have to sand it down smooth.

After the compound has dried (ours took about 35 min. Read the directions on the back of the container for specifics) using your sanding sponge which was 220 grit, sand over the compound. Start on the edges and as you work your way into the middle, sand in circles lightly. Again, you want it to be seamless with the wall. And don't sand so much that you begin to see the gauze. You don't want that.

STEP 5: PAINT TO TOUCH UP. Once everything is sanded and smooth, take your touch up paint & paint over your repair work. A couple of things. Before you paint, take a damp cloth & wipe down the wall around your patch. This gets off the dust & minimizes the area that you have to paint. When you paint, use even strokes, paint in one direction, & go a couple of inches around the patch so that it will blend in nice-like. Because the joint compound can really suck up that paint, it may take more than 1 coat. Ours took 2 coats to look natural.

Here is a shot of the finished wall. Where the arrows are is where the hole and dent used to be.

This project cost us $10.82 compared to the $50 that it would cost to have a handyman come out and repair the hole. Why buy it? Let's just make that!

Here is my niece Elisse, who was our littlest Let's just make that! Maker. Thanks for the help baby girl.

Upcoming Projects

2011-03-22T09:42:00.001-07:00

Hey Makers,

Just wanted to check in to let up all know what I'm working on and ideas that I have swirling around in my head.

Recently when I went home to Tennessee ( I claim Tennessee and Ky because I am a child of divorce <aren't we all> and one lives in one and one lives in the other), where my Mother had inadvertently created a hole in the wall. I showed her how to patch that right up and that will be our next episode. She saved $40 by not hiring a handyman to do this. This will be the next episode. In the future when "Let's just make that!" blows up, this project will fall under "Let's just fix that!" Ohhhh dang, a brand.

Right now Marcus (that's my boyfriend) needs an extra cutting surface in the kitchen because of lack of counterspace. I am thinking of a design with semiperminance so that it is there when we need it and out of the way when we don't. I reckon that I will go with a piece of wood hinged to the wall with folding legs. Think behind the door ironing board. This should be cool.

He (marcus) also has a pretty bad shoe habit. Some people snort cocaine, mine buys shoes-mostly on sale, so it could be a lot worse. This said, we need to find creative storage solutions for this so that we can get them out of the box and vertical.

And lastly, I need a chandelier for my dining room. I have a bandmate named Millie that needs one too, but as I'm am experimenting and learning, lighting fixtures can be tricky (at least the one's that hang).

If anyone has any suggestions on any of these objects of something that you would like to build, write in. Dang, Let's just make that!

Episode 003 8-Track Key Holder

2011-03-18T21:30:00.000-07:00


For ep. 3, we made a key holder using an old (but still working) 8 track. I must say that this is by far the easiest & shortest project that we've done to date, being that it is a level 1 Wrench & the full episode is only 8 minutes short.

Now for the Quick Project Rundown (QPR).

PROJECT: Key Holder
STEPS: 4
EPISODE LENGTH: 8 min
DIFFICULTLY LEVEL: Level 1 Wrench
MATERIALS: (1) 8 track, (3) tea cup hooks, (1) picture hanger, (1) screw
TOOLS: Drill, tape measure, hot glue, pencil

STEP 1: GET MATERIALS. Pick out an 8 track that has an amazing artist on the cover. Who do you want greeting you as you walk in the door. Your other materials are listed above in the QPR.

STEP 2: MEASURE & DRILL HOLES. With the tape measure, measure across the bottom width of the 8 track. Ours is 3 3/4" wide. Find the center & make a mark. This will be at 1 7/8" That's for the center hook. Then, measure 1/2" from the outside of each edge and make your marks. That's for the other 2 hooks. And lastly, with a small drill bit, drill a hole on each mark. You don't need to go all the way through the tape, just enough to break the surface.

STEP 3: ASSEMBLE. Screw in the teacup hooks.

Now, we flip the 8 track over & hot glue our picture hanger toward the top. On this particular 8 track, I am placing the hardware over the groove. FYI- you can screw in the picture hanger hardware if you want, but 1) the hot glue is easier, I think and 2) it gives you the option of reusing the 8 track later if you want (as long as you didn't drill into the magnetic tape from earlier).

STEP 4: HANG. With your drill, screw you screw into the wall, next to your door, or wherever you want to dangle & display your keys.

And finally, place your 8 track over the screw & align with your back hardware. Slip the 8 track over said screw & press down to engage. VOILA! MAGNIFICO! You have your fabulous 8 track key holder. If you find that there is too much play with the cartridge once you hang your keys, simply pull it back off of the wall & tighten the screw so that it is closer to the wall.

This project cost us $4.75 compared to the average $17 ones that I found online. By making this ourselves, we saved $12.25. Why buy it? Let's Just Make That!


Look at how sexy these keyholders are. I guarantee you that none of your friends are greeted daily by such handsome specimens of male pulchritude.

Episode 002 Pot Rack

2011-03-18T21:16:00.000-07:00

Introducing the quick project rundown. I'll start including this at the beginning of each entry.

PROJECT: Pot Rack
STEPS: 5
EPISODE LENGTH: 20 min (in 2 parts)
DIFFICULTLY LEVEL: Level 2 Wrench
MATERIALS: window frame, copper piping, Milford brackets, pot hooks, lag hooks, chain

Hey, hey, hey! Here's ep. #2, Potrack that we built for newly weds Mike & Jess Gore. They have very little cabinet space at their house and keeping the pots on the floor wasn't an option anymore since the mice took up residence.

STEP 1: GET MATERIALS. We used a window frame, (2 pieces) copper piping, (4) steel 6" Milford hangers, (4) hanging hooks for the frame, (4) lag hooks for the ceiling, (4 pieces) of 2' chain, and (12) hooks to hang the pots and pans. The pot rack was built using a window frames that we found in Mike's basement. The copper piping & hooks came from the hardware store. We built this for $31.25 compared to the average $150.00 that are in stores.

STEP 2: LOCATE CEILING JOISTS & MEASURE FOR THE HOOKS. The ceiling joists are the horizontal beams that run parallel across the room from wall to wall. They are what hold up the ceiling. Using a stud finder, we dragged it across the ceiling to find our beams. They are usually 16" apart, sometimes 20". Ours we 16".

Once we found the beams, we were ready to measure for our lag hooks that we would hang the pot rack from. Continuing to use the stud finder, we measured an imaginary 33" x 16" rectangle. On each of those corners (see the pink dots) we made a mark because that's where we will screw in our lag hooks. Notice that we are hanging are the hooks 1" from the edge of the actual window frame. That's so that our chains will hang at a slight angle.

Next, screw the lag hooks into the ceiling.

STEP 3: MEASURE & SCREW HOOKS INTO THE WINDOW FRAME. Measure 3/4" from the edge on every corner to screw in your hooks for hanging from the ceiling.

Turn the frame upside down. On the short sides, measure 3/4" from the top and 4" from each edge. Screw in the Milford brackets. These will hold our copper piping.

STEP 4: CUT PIPE. Cut the copper piping into (2) 32" pieces. The window frame is 31" across. The brackets are 1/2" wide. Since there is one bracket on each side, it's a total of 1" extra that we should add to the piping for a total length of 32" per piece. NOTE: Some hardware store will cut it for you, but if not, you can buy a pipe cutter for $16, our do like we did and use a hacksaw to cut the pipe. This took for-ev-er...just so ya know.

STEP 5: ASSEMBLE RACK & HANG. Once cut, loosen the screws on the bracket & slide your piping into the slot. Before we did this, we went ahead and slid the pot hooks onto the piping. If you look hard enough, you can see Mike being suggestive with the piece of pipe on the right.

Coming into the home stretch, we then hung our chains from the lag hooks that were previously attached to the ceiling. Once the chains were hung, we connected the window frame by the hooks we previously attached, to the chains. It's super easy to adjust the height that you need. Just count the chain links evenly on each side and let the access chain sit on top of the frame- out of sight, our of mind.

Look at this hotness! Not too shabby. And since the pane of glass is still intact, Mike and Jess use that to store the pot lids.

This project cost us $31.23 compared to the average $200 ones that I found online. By making this ourselves, we saved $269.77. Why buy it? Let's Just Make That!

One more glamour shot from the underside.

Kitchen Island-episode 001

2011-01-31T13:37:00.000-08:00

For our first project, I built a kitchen island in my apartment. I had about 2 feet of counter space and needed more. To go and buy one would have cost $400 easy, so I built this one for $90. Follow the link to watch the video of how to build it step by step. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhJmGl5u8SE
Please remember that this is my 1st episode, so they will only get better. I will be putting out a shorter, more comprehensive version of this episode soon. If I have left any thing out (which I know I have) that would help you better understand the project so that you too can do, don't hesitate to write and ask me. The following pictures show the progression of the island being built.

After getting our materials at the Home Depot, where they cut everything to size, I laid out all of my piece in preparation for assembly. Each piece has a corresponding letter to make it easier to follow along which the diagrams shown below. Just a note. I got a pre-made table top from Ikea for $60 bucks that was the size I needed. Your table top can be any flat surface you want to use like wood or stainless steel or Formica (yeah). You can also get pre-made surfaces at places like Lowe's and Home Depot. Make sure to check in with your local hardware store. They might have something or could steer you in the right direction.

This is our "cut list" for the hardware store. A "cut list" is a chart that you create listing the amount of pieces that you need and their measurements. You start by creating columns. In the far left, you write your individual pieces (A,B,C,D,E,F). Across the top, you put length (L), width (w), and thickness (t). From there you fill out the "in between" with the correct measurements you want. (see above). Once you have every measurement written out, and you find out the selection of lumber that you will be working with, you can see how many of your pieces you can get from a single piece of stock lumber. This is a great organizing and communication tool so that by the time you get ready to cut your materials, everything has been thought out and understood.

This is the layout for the sides and bottom of the island.

Here, Mike and I (my pal and production assistant) are assembling the sides of the island (A,B,C, & D).

Propping up the 1st side, getting ready to screw in the top & bottom runners (E).

Screwing in one of the bottom runners (E).

Screwing in the top runners (E).

Now we are screwing in the 2nd bottom runner. This one didn't go to the edge like the others. I will be using this island as a dinner table as well, so I need to include 9 inches of foot space on one side to accommodate the stools that I will eventually build for seating.


On those bottom rails, I laid two 7.5"wide x 55" long planks across to use as storage for food or appliances.

Viola! Here is the finished product. I added a pot rack rail on the bottom of the table top to hang my pots and pans, thus allowing for more storage. The island turned out great. It's a good height (which is important for food prep) and it's nice and sturdy. Before my kitchen was whack, but now I'm in paradise with my kitchen island.

As I said before, in a store this would have easily been $400. For us to build it, all materials including lumber and hardware cost us $90. By building it ourselves, we saved $310. For me, that's well worth the 45 minutes it took to build this.